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Wati kutjara – The goanna men

This is the story of two powerful magicians who came to the Ngaanyatjarra Lands from far away to the west;

‘These two men are always together, always camping together. They do all sorts of tricks when they travel across the lands as they stop from place to place. When they reached ‘Wirtapi Wara’ (Long Black or Blackstone Range) they argued about which way to go around. One went around the south side and the other the north side.

At a distance it seemed they didn’t recognise each other or perhaps they were just pretending not to recognise each other! It is also said that at Papulankutja they tricked each other by changing their appearance at the same time so they had no chance to recognise each other. The name Papulankutja comes from the Ngaanyatjarra word meaning, ‘to stare without recognising each other’.

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Women collecting bush foods

The Anangu people travelled vast desert landscapes, following the seasons for food and shelter, deeply attuned to the rhythms of the land. This resilience and wisdom embedded in traditional bush foods that sustained them across generations.

Maku (Witchety Grubs), with their creamy, nutty flavour, represent survival and the resourcefulness to draw nourishment from deep within tree roots. Kampurarrpa (Desert Raisins), small and tangy, add brightness and essential nutrients to desert diets, thriving under intense sun.

Ipalu (Bush Banana), a climbing vine with crisp, slender fruits, offers fibre and hydration—a refreshing staple in arid climates. Ili (Bush Figs), with their mild sweetness, grow from rugged trees, offering a delicate treat in the harsh terrain.

Through vibrant colours and intricate designs, these bush foods embody the spirit of Ngaanyatjarra culture, each a testament to the land’s gifts and the knowledge passed through generations.

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Djomi (Fresh Water Spirit)

This design depicts the story of the artist’s ancestral dreaming, the Djómi (Fresh Water Spirit).

The Djómi figure is a mermaid-like spirit with fish tail that lives in the freshwater stream that flows out to the sea cliff near Maningrida. Djómi is known to be a very powerful fertility symbol.

“If you go there, you can get pregnant easily. Djómi has babies, and they can give other babies too. The Djómi spirit is so powerful, that women can end up with multiple babies at once, twins or sometimes even more. The Djómi spirits lay eggs near the sacred freshwater stream in Maningrida. Inside the eggs are human babies as well as young Djómi. Men do not go near that swamp, because Djomi is so powerful that men might get pregnant there too. So men are too scared of that Djómi. When we visit the Djómi freshwater spring, we can hear young Djómi  crying. They sound like normal babies crying, those Djómi spirits. They are looking for a mother. This Djómi is my dreaming, I got permission from my djungkay (ritual manager) to paint this Djómi design. For me I always ask my djunguy permission to paint, because that is our cultural way. This design also depicts the freshwater lily leaves and seaweed from the base of the sea floor.” Joy Galrbin

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Kungkarrangkalpa (Seven Sisters)

‘Kungkarrangkalpa’ (The Seven Sisters or Pleaides) is significant Tjukurrpa (dreamtime). Its origins you may be familiar with in astronomy and its connection to ‘Wati Nyiru’ (Magic Man or Orion).  The roots of this dreaming stems across indigenous groups around the world. The Australian Aboriginal songline is one part to the whole dreaming which can be traced all around the world. The ladies of the Ngaanyatjarra Lands depict their significant chapter and understanding of the journey of the sisters. The different versions of this story depend on where you live and the significance’s of local Tjukurrpa places.

Nyiru fell in love with the sisters but he was of the wrong skin group to marry, but he still pursued them on their journey. The sisters travel across the land to escape Nyiru’s unwanted attentions, but he is persistent and always finds them. There are significant land forms which can be sited today that evidence this dreaming. As Nyiru is chasing the sisters he tries to catch them by using magic to turn into the most tempting kampurarrpa (bush tomato) and the most beautiful Yirli (wild fig tree), for them to eat and camp under. However, the sisters are knowledgeable of his magic and too clever for Nyiru who they outwit again and again. They go hungry and run through the night rather than be caught by him. As the journey continues, Nyiru gets so frustrated at the wit of the sisters that he uses his magic to make the oldest sister sick to try and get closer to her. The other sisters rescue the big sister and nurse her back to health. It is said he also captures the youngest sister, but with the help of the oldest sister, she escapes back to her sisters who are waiting for her. Eventually, the sisters fly into the sky to escape Nyiru, forming the constellation. Nyiru felt lonely, longing for the sisters who were so far away. Nyiru used his magic to go to the sky, forever in pursuit.

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Murnun (Dugong)

Dugong can be found in the waters around Maningrida They are a protected species but do form part of a traditional manme (bushfood) diet for some saltwater communities.

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Murnun (Dugong)

Dugong can be found in the waters around Maningrida They are a protected species but do form part of a traditional manme (bushfood) diet for some saltwater communities.

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Kunwardde dja Kunronj (Rocks and Billabong)

Abigail has depicted the waterholes or Kunwardde dja Kunronj (Sacred Rocks and Billabong) that lie on the plains near Mankorlod, the country for which she is a traditional owner.

The waterholes remain wet throughout the year, even during dry season. This site is connected to the artist’s djang (dreaming), the ngalng (freshwater yabbie) and stone country. Mankorlod homeland is a three-hour drive from Maningrida in the kunwardde (stone country).

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Man-djarduk (Red Bush Apples)

Deborah Wurrkidj is a Kuninjku artist from the Kurulk clan whose country lies around the outstation of Mumeka in central Arnhem Land.

In this design she has depicted man-djarduk (red bush apples) – a sweet, crisp bush food that is a favourite to collect.

Man-djarduk fruits in kurrung and kunumeleng seasons, the build-up and first rains seasons.

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Yvonne Ngwarraye Bonney – My Hunting Country

Yvonne has painted her favourite hunting country after rain. “This is when the storm ants come and make the goannas nice and fat, the ground is soft for digging honey ants and it’s when the bush foods and grasses come up and grow strong. The country is normally bare with small stones and rocks everywhere, but after rain, everything comes alive.”

Yvonne is a tremendous hunter, she is skilled in reading tracks and reading the land. Painting hunting country is important and special to her. 

The community of Ampilatwatja made a conscious decision not to paint ‘altyerr’(dreaming stories). The artists paint their country where those stories sit.